Rear Seats: 6'x9' 2- or 3-way speakers (with more emphasis on low frequency sounds)Īlso, what is the best order to replace/add components for this system? I can't afford to do them all at once (buying the car kind of cleaned me out), but I'll probably spend at least $1500 over just the next 6-12 months on this system (and maybe more after that), so I want to get my money's worth.Īny help would be much appreciated.

Rear Door: 5 1/4' 3-way speakers (again, best overall sound) What is the best combination of Amps, Speakers, and Subs to create the best sound? This is the initial idea I had:įront: 6'x8' 3- or 4-way or component speakers (for best highs/overall sound while driving) I'm planning on having this car for a long time (3-5 years), so I'm willing to plunk some cash into this system. I'm looking for the best way to incorporate a six-speaker system, with the possibility of adding a subwoofer later on. However, it also has precut/vented spots for speakers in the rear door panels. It has 4 factory speakers installed (2 in the front door panels, 2 behind the headrests in the back seats). It has a nice Pioneer DEH-P550MP head unit, but I'm considering replacing it with a unit that has Cassette, CD, and an Front AUX Input for my laptop/PDA (any recommendations for such a Head Unit would be much appreciated). Aux Input cables are located in the glove box (3.Posted on Monday, Ap09:09 GMTI just bought a '99 Mazda Protege ES.Pin 13: Blue / Red - Constant Power aka Battery aka Memory, connect to yellow wire in aftermarket harness.Pin 12: Green / Black - Illumination, thanks twizyours.Pin 11: White / Blue - Dimmer, not typically used for an aftermarket radio.Pin 10: Pink / Black - Switched power, connect to red wire in aftermarket harness.Pin 4: Brown / White - Rear Left Speaker (+).Pin 1: Green / Orange - Rear Right Speaker (-).put the trim around your new stereo, turn on the car and try 'er out.if it seems like the stereo won't go any further and its sticking out, this is probably because the rubber tab at the back of the stereo is not lined up with the hole in the back, pull the stereo out a little then press on the bottom part only (to lift the bottom up) or the top part only (to push the top down).now slide the new stereo into the sleeve, it will snap once it is in place.connecting the antenna wire last seems to work best.try and get the bulk of the wiring tucked down behind the pocket.remember to thread the aux wires through to somewhere first.Now connect the wires and wiring harness to your stereo, including the auxiliary input wires if you have any.Just visually inspect which tabs to depress, whichever ones would most help keep it in place.Use a flathead screwdriver to depress the tabs on the sleeve to keep the sleeve in place (it shouldn't move around afterwards).My mounting harness had small clips around the edges that snapped into place, i had to give it a few shoves for it to snap into place.Now slide your mounting harness into the hole in the dash, this should also be quite snug.Slide the stereo sleeve (that metal frame thing that came with your stereo) into the mounting harness, it should be fairly snug.Remove the factory stereo or remove your old aftermarket stereo.My wiring harness was missing pins for 11 and 12, so I going to have to buy an extra pin for 12 and insert it myself, until then I will just do without the illumination functionality.Don't forget to connect extra wiring from the ground and +battery if you plan on adding any amps.Connect your wiring harness to your new stereo's wiring harness.Your car will sound quite different after you are done, even with factory speakers!.Remember to put the rubber tab on at the back of your new stereo (this helps keep it stable).

You should try and wire the ground lead from your new stereo to the chassis if at all possible.You can order these from Mazda (BJ1H-66-9M0) or find them elsewhere.You can pick these up at most electronics stores.

Mazda protege car audio